Same Same But Different...

“Same Same But Different” is one of my favorite phrases. To me it means that no matter where you go in the world the people and their lives are same same, but in other ways very different. I learned this in Thailand. There it means you asked the waiter for lamb, but he gives you beef…same same but different. You asked the taxi to go this restaurant, but he takes you to that one… same same but different. This will be a common theme throughout my volunteering experience.

We arrived at the main airport in Jo’berg mid morning on Monday. The night before, we were both shattered from the tour de Madrid and passed clean out on the plane missing all the luxurious benefits except vertical slumber. When you exit an international terminal in any country it is always a dramatic experience… same same. No matter where you are, you are certain to walk a long solitary hall littered with customs agents eyeing you suspiciously. Then you approach a set of domineering double doors that open up to a sea of shouting drivers, crying mothers, emotionless men with name boards, and my favorite…long lost lovers. Regardless of geography or language, this always makes for the best people watching. Today was no exception. We arrived early and waited for our volunteer rep by the gate watching the reunions. There was the student returning from abroad, the young chap working in Europe, the family who only comes home once every few years, and the newly engaged couple greeting the family for the first time (you know they were my favorites). I only teared up twice.

When we met Marnie our Voluntours rep, she walked right up and gave us a big hug. I knew I liked her immediately. She had her 6 year old son Ayron in tow who would become our faithful travel companion and helper. I’m not sure why, but his little SA accent kept me rolling. I guess my inner brain thinks that all kids should speak American.

We trudged out of the airport to the transport that here forth will be called the green machine. The green machine is a small regency four door hatch back with a few dings, a wooden pole to hold up the broken hatch back, and a lot of character. As we made our way out of the airport, Marnie broke the news that the water pipe to the village is busted, so we will not have showers during the week. She kindly offered to take us to her house for our first shower of the weekend and last shower of the week. We accepted without hesitation. It is not often (or ever) that you find a travel professional who offers their personal home to their customers. This was the first of many acts that proved Marnie to be of a different breed of travel professionals. (I highly recommend www.voluntours.com)

We showered up quickly and got on the road…picked up some essentials along the way, including a local SIM card for the dongle (South African for usb air card) that Marnie and Jeremy loaned us (really? Too nice) and a torch (flashlight) as electricity “is only working when it’s working” in the village. I’m beginning to get the picture.

I could see the terrain change from average suburban brick homes, to brick homes with tin roofs, to tin homes. It was a remarkable change. When we arrived at the edge of the group of Ndebele villages we stopped at a home to pick up a child that had been recently orphaned and adopted by Marnie, Jeremy and Aryon. Thabung was a very happy child and comrade to all Marnie’s volunteers. October this year his mother passed away. She was survived by many children, all of whom are now relying on their old gogo (grandmother) and auntie for caretaking and there is very little family income besides government assistance. Thabung was a charming young man who makes good grades in school and wants to be a doctor when he grows up. His first question was, “Do you know Beyonce?” That would be the first question of many young lads in the village :) they love her. Thabung would turn into a super helper and translator during our volunteering with the village children.

Next we headed down a dirt road and came upon a bridge…THE bridge…that gets you to the village. But most of the bridge had washed away. We got out of the car and walked close to see the damage. There was a route, but you couldn’t be sure if it was sturdy. Marnie decides to give it a shot and we decided to wait on the other side. She made it, but I still stand by that decision. After a cheer we were on our way.

When we arrived at the village we were greeted by so many lovely people and beautifully painted traditional Ndebele designs on almost every flat surface. The gogos paint these designs with toothbrushes, which is unbelievable because the designs are so sharp and precise. We met Thsulu, Thulare, David and the hospitality team: Elizabeth, Mama, Connie, Esther and Dinah. Elizabeth gave us the grand tour of the village center that would be home base. Dinah cooked us an amazing dinner of baked chicken, rice, tomato yumminess, beets, mixed veg, pumpkin, custard and jelly for desert.  If this connection wasn't so slow you know you'd have a picture of it.  I'll upload pics at the next stop. We also had several beers, which made the exhaustion and jet lag set in all the more. After some great conversation we were nearly falling asleep at the table and had to be excused.